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  4. Manufacturing of textiles, hides/skins and leather 039

Manufacturing of textiles, hides/skins and leather 039

Nordic Swan Ecolabelled clothes and textiles has documented good quality and must have a reduced environmental impact throughout the life cycle of the textile. UN’s International Labour Conventions (ILO) on workers’ rights must be complied with in the production.
The requirements include products of textile fibers, hides and leather. Clothing, accessories, home textiles and textile fibers, yarn and fabrics for clothing or furnishings textiles can be certified with the Nordic Swan Ecolabel.

Examples

Clothing: Sweater, dress, trousers, skirt, jeans, shirt, top, jacket, workwear, uniforms, socks, and underwear.

Accessories: Hat, cap, scarf, belt, bag, handbag, and backpack.

Home textiles: Duvet, pillow, towels, bed linen, curtains, tablecloths and upholstery fabrics.

The requirements include:

  • Use of fibers that are either organic, recycled or based on renewable resources and meet specific environmental requirements.
  • Environmental and health properties of all chemicals used in the textile production. Among other things, the Nordic Swan Ecolabel sets strict requirements to substances that are classified carcinogenic, toxic to reproduction or can damage genetic material. Identified and potential endocrine disruptors on up-to-date lists from EU and national authorities, flame retardants and fluorinated substances, and antibacterial additives incl. nanoparticles are forbidden.
  •  Implementation of a minimum of BAT (best available technology) water and energy efficiency techniques or local production of solar energy in textile production.
  • Test of the quality of the textile, e.g., dimensional change, color fastness and abrasion resistance.
  • Compliance with UN’s International Labour Organization (ILO) conventions on workers’ rights.

Two license types: One for the manufacturing and one for the products

As of version 5.0 of the requirements (effective as of March 1, 2022), there are two license types:

  • Manufacturing licence
  • Product licence

Each license type requires a separate application and has its own fees.

Manufacturing licence

As a rule, it will be the company behind the factory where the goods are produced that applies for a manufacturing licence, but it may also be the company that owns the brand. A manufacturing licence entitles the holder to produce goods for product licences within the product range specified in the manufacturing licence. However, a manufacturing license does not give the right to ecolabel the produced goods or claim that they are Nordic Swan Ecolabelled or meet the Swan's requirements.

The criteria for production facilities and processes can be found in the Nordic Ecolabel portal. The product range is specified by declaring the goods in the Portal for supply chain declaration . The product area is defined, among other things, by product type, material and other inputs such as colour and buttons.

In the declaration of a product, the applicant specifies which components that are used for the individual item. The following components can be declared in the Supply Chain Portal by applicants and/or relevant subcontractors: Chemicals, fibre, yarn, fabric, accessories such as buttons, fillings and also leather.

Product licence, for brand/goods owners

To ecolabel clothes, bed linen, a belt or any other textile or leather product, you must apply for a product licence. In this case, the criteria that apply to products in the Nordic Swan Ecolabel Portal must be met. You must also specify which manufacturing licenses the product license should be based on.

There are 2200 Ecolabelled products from 40 companies within productgroup.

  • In order to use the Nordic Swan Ecolabel in your marketing, you must have a valid Nordic Swan Ecolabel licence. Please log in to The Nordic Ecolabelling Portal to apply for a licence. You are free to use the Nordic Swan Ecolabel in all of your marketing from the date of approval until your licence expires.

    Go to The Nordic Ecolabelling Portal and start your application process!

    If this is the first time you apply, an authorised signatory in your company must approve the terms and conditions for the Nordic Ecolabelling Portal. Then you will get a login to the portal and the right to assign access to other colleagues.

    Please, fill in the power of attorney.

    When you have filled in the power of attorney, you will receive an e-mail from us with your login credentials.

    Start by going through the requirements and fees that apply to your specific product group. These can be found above.

    In some cases, you must use our separate application form. For example, the form must be used in cases where the producer and licensee are two separate companies, or if you wish to cancel a licence. Please contact your advisor in these cases, or if you are unsure what applies to you. The form to be used in these special cases can be downloaded here.

    For more details on the application process, please head to our application guide: "Application step by step".

    Good luck with your application!

  • 039 Manufacturing licence for cloathes, textiles and leather

    Valid from Januari 1, 2024

    Amount excluding VAT

    Type of fee

    Application for a new licence, including one on-site inspection within the Nordic region*

    3 114 EUR for production plant with up to 1 dyeing unit and 1
    printing unit.

    778 EUR for each additional dyeing or printing unit linked to the application
    Application of renewal

    1 557 EUR (Includes production plant with up to 1 dyeing unit and 1 printing unit)

    778 EUR for each additional dyeing or printing unit linked to the
    application.
    More than one inspection visit within the Nordic region* 519 EUR per visit
    Inspection visits in Europe** 1 557 EUR per visit
    Inspection visits outside Europe 2 595 EUR per visit
    Extension of exsisting licence*** < 4 hours: 389 EUR
    < 8 hours: 778 EUR
    ≥ 8 hours: 1 557 EUR
    Annual licence fee, global 2 076 EUR per year

     

    Valid from January 1, 2023 until December 31, 2023

    Amount excluding VAT

    Application fee

    New application 3 114 EUR
    Application for a renewed licence

    1 557 EUR

    Annual licence fee

    Licence fee in the Nordics The fee is 0,3 % of the products' turnover in the Nordic countries
    Minimum fee 2 076 EUR per year
    Maximum fee 100 000 EUR per year
    Fixed fee that is added for sales outside the Nordic countries 2 076 EUR per year if the turnover exceeds 300 000 EUR

    Fee for extension/change of licence

    Fixed fee that is charged depending on how long the work takes.

    Up to 4 hours 389 EUR
    4–8 hours 778 EUR
    8 or more hours 1 557 EUR

    Fee for on-site inspections

    One on-site inspection in the Nordic countries is included when applying for a new or renewed licence.

    Additional on-site inspection within the Nordic countries 519 EUR per visit
    On-site inspection outside the Nordic region, but within Europe 1 557 EUR per visit
    On-site inspection outside Europe 2 595 EUR per visit
    Additional fee for on-site inspections lasting longer than one day 1 038 EUR per day

     

    112 Product licence (brand owner) for cloathes, textiles and leather

    Valid from January 1, 2024

    Amount excluding VAT

    Application fee

    New application 3 114 EUR
    Application for a renewed licence

    1 557 EUR

    Annual licence fee

    Annual licence fee, Nordics 0,15 % of the products turnover in the Nordic countries up to 30 million EUR.
    0,05% of the turnover that exceeds 30 million EUR
    Minimum licence fee, Nordics 2 076 EUR per year
    Fixed fee that is added for sales outside the Nordic countries 2 076 EUR per year if the turnover exceeds 300 000 EUR of Nordic Swan Ecolabelled products,
    sold outside the Nordics

    Fee for extension/change of licence

    Fixed fee that is charged depending on how long the work takes.

    Up to 4 hours 389 EUR
    4–8 hours 778 EUR
    8 or more hours 1 557 EUR

     

    Valid from January 1, 2023 until December 31, 2023

    Amount excluding VAT

    Application fee

    New application 3 114 EUR
    Application for a renewed licence

    N/A

    Annual licence fee

    The licence fee for the Nordic Swan Ecolabelled products is based on their turnover in the Nordic countries No fee in 2023
    Fixed fee that is added for sales outside the Nordic countries No fee in 2023

    Fee for extension/change of licence

    Fixed fee that is charged depending on how long the work takes.

    Up to 4 hours 389 EUR
    4–8 hours 778 EUR
    8 or more hours 1 557 EUR

     

    Valid from April 29, 2022 until December 31, 2022

    Amount excluding VAT

    Application fee

    Application for new licence, received before the end of 2022

    1 520 EUR

    Free for brand owners with a license for 039 Textiles skin and leather, generation 4, if they apply for renewal of their existing licence at the same time.
    Application for a renewed licence

    N/A

    Annual licence fee

    The licence fee for the Nordic Swan Ecolabelled products is based on their turnover in the Nordic countries No fee in 2022
    Fixed fee that is added for sales outside the Nordic countries No fee in 2022

    Fee for extension/change of licence

    Fixed fee that is charged depending on how long the work takes.

    Up to 4 hours 375 EUR
    4–8 hours 750 EUR
    8 or more hours 1 500 EUR

    * When both the applicant and the manufacturer are micro-enterprises, the fee is reduced by 50%. A micro-enterprise is in this context defined as an enterprise with less than 10 employees and an annual turnover (of both ecolabelled and not ecolabelled products) below 2 million EUR.

    ** Where audits requires more than one day away from the office including travelling, Nordic Ecolabelling can invoice an additional fee of 1 038 EUR per extra day. Other extraordinary costs induced by the audit can also be invoiced the applicant.

    *** As for an extension of or amendments to a licence, time consumed in connection with the review process will be invoiced according to the extent of the required task. We make a distinction between entirely administrative tasks that last less than 1 hour, and all other tasks that last between 1 and 4 hours, between 4 and 8 hours and more than 8 hours.

    The recipient is liable for the VAT according to article 56 of the Council Directive 2006/112/EC.
    All information given on this site is subject to a disclaimer for errors and omissions.

     

    Read more in our Fee Regulations for Nordic Ecolabelling

  • Information on the latest version of the criteria for textiles, hides and leather

    5.0 ⇛ 5.1: Adjustment of criteria

    Adjustment of the following criteria:

    • Requirement O13 by adding Leather standard by Oeko-Tex
    • Requirement O14 by adding OCS 100 and OCS blended
    • Requirement O29 by adding Bonsucro standard
    • Requirement O70 by introduction of tests according to standard ISO/DIS 4484-1 and AATCCTM212
    • Requirement O93 where requirement for labels on plastic packaging have been deleted

    The new version is called 5.1 and is valid until 1 May 2026.

    5.0: New criteria generation

    The Nordic Ecolabelling Board has decided on a new generation. The new generation, 5.0, will take effect on 1 March 2022 and is valid until on 1 May 2026.

    4.14 ⇛ 4.15: Prolongation of the validity of the criteria

    Nordic Ecolabbetling decided on 3 May 2022 to prolong the validity of the criteria to the 31 December 2023. The new version is called 4.15.

    4.13 ⇛ 4.14: Prolongation of the validity of the criteria

    The validity of the criteria has been prolonged by 6 months to 31 May 2023. The new version is called 4.14.

    4.12 ⇛ 4.13: Prolongation of the validity of the criteria

    The validity of the criteria has been prolonged by 11 months to 30 November 2022. The new version is called 4.13.

    4.11 ⇛ 4.12: Prolongation of the validity of the criteria

    The validity of the criteria has been prolonged by 12 months to 31 December 2021. The new version is called 4.12.

    4.10 ⇛ 4.11: Adjustment of criteria

    Requirement O2 regarding metal in belts has been adjusted. The new version is called 4.11. 

    4.9 ⇛ 4.10: Adjustment of criteria

    Requirement O69 has been given a dimensional change for woven products for quilts and pillows. The new version is called 4.10. 

    4.8 ⇛ 4.9: Adjustment of criteria

    Adjustments have been made to requirements O2 and O82. The new version is called 4.9.

    4.7 ⇛ 4.8: Adjustment and prolongation of criteria

    It was decided to remove requirement O91 Recycling and return system. Furthermore the validity of the requirements has been prolonged with 24 months to 31 December 2020. The new version is called 4.8.

    4.6 ⇛ 4.7: Adjustment of criteria

    It was decided to implement Nordic Ecolabelling’s new forestry requirements as an alternative to the present forestry requirements. The new version is called 4.7.

    4.5 ⇛ 4.6: Adjustment of criteria

    An adjustment has been introduced to requirement O35 regarding the use of metal complex dyes for more fiber types. The new version is called 4.6.

    4.4 ⇛ 4.5: Adjustment of criteria

    An adjustment has been introduced to requirement O35 regarding the use of metal complex dyes. The new version is called 4.5.

    4.3 ⇛ 4.4: Adjustment of criteria

    Requirement O3 has been adjusted regarding glufosinate. The new version, 4.4, is valid until December 31st 2018.

    4.2 ⇛ 4.3: Adjustment and prolongation of criteria

    • Requirements R71 and R72 have been altered for indigo dyed denim.
    • The validity of the criteria has been prolonged with 24 months.

    The new version, 4.3, is valid until December 31st 2018.

    4.1 ⇛ 4.2: Adjustment of criteria

    • Requirement K31 regarding dyes, colorants and pigments has been adjusted.

    The new version, 4.2, is valid until December 31st 2016.

    4.0 ⇛ 4.1: Adjustment of criteria

    • Requirement K23, regarding heavy metals on details of the fabric, has been eased.
    • M8 - regarding marketing - has been removed.

    The new version, 4.1, is valid until December 31st 2016.

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